![]() Elsewhere, the barbecue sauce isn’t cloying and has a mere underlying presence, while the macaroni and cheese adds a ludicrous, carb-heavy decadence to the dish, making the entire burger taste so wrong, but so right, somehow each at the same time. ![]() The burger arrives resembling a monstrous pile of carbohydrates, but above all, it’s served on a plate ( not a chopping board, thankfully) and the burger is cooked rare, as requested, without any health and safety spill about Westminster Council’s malevolent aspiration to strip diners of genuinely good burgers. The whole precipice stirs nightmares of over-sized gourmet burgers towered with discordant ingredients, leaving a wanton stain on both your shirt and your mind – but it’s highly-recommended by our waitress, who insists it’s incomparably better than the famous ‘Chicken & Waffles”. On the menu, ‘The Mac Daddy’ (£11) reads like another absolute disaster: “brisket and dry aged steak burger topped with pulled beef short rib, mac and cheese and burnt onion and ale BBQ sauce”. Chicken wings (£7) are coated in a Louisiana hot sauce that’s less fiery than it is harshly acidic. In addition, a generous handful of chilli is welcome, joined by toasted almonds to bring texture – yet pomegranate molasses, here, resemble lurid strawberry sauce associated with ice cream, withholding a deeply unpleasant syrupy sweetness. Wedges of charcoal-grilled and roasted butternut squash, no less, are placed on a bed of crème fraiche, separating the hot vegetable from an ever hotter plate, thus quickly souring like spoiled milk left out of the fridge for too long. Purists will hate every bite, but these dumplings aren’t just fun, they’re bold with insalubriously sating flavours. Paper-thin Gyoza wrappers are filled with minced beef, melted cheese and burger sauce, blurring the lines between Japanese and American comfort food with startling panache. Against all odds, the ‘Cheeseburger Dumplings’ (£8.50) are quite enjoyable, though a dish of roasted squash (£6) is not. The new restaurant’s menu is similar to the other branches concise but with a handful of new dishes exclusive to the Denman Street site. ‘Dirty Mary’, for instance, is a classic Bloody Mary with added hot sauce, pickle juices and a rim of crushed sour cream Pringles ‘Rhum Old Fashioned’ substitutes classic Bourbon for spiced rum, and an ‘Uptown Spritz’ is a refreshing blend of gin, Aperol, Campari, ginger ale and tart pink grapefruit. The restaurant also has a prominent focus on playful, inventive cocktails. Inside, the space is dark and cosy, while the increasingly popular soundtrack spans from late ‘70s funk, to 1990s Hip-Hop, back to American pop hits of the 1980s. ![]() The latest addition to the family has recently opened just behind Piccadilly Circus, and is one of the area’s few small restaurants to take bookings. With three successful restaurants already operating across London (Kensington, Shoreditch and Carnaby Street), Dirty Bones serves quintessentially American comfort food in an informal, convivial setting, with a prominent focus on the music that’s blasted throughout the dining space. As a result, eating out in Soho has somehow become less fun than standing on a packed Piccadilly Line tube all the way from Heathrow to Cockfosters. ![]() ![]() Now, most of the area’s restaurants are impossible to visit during a realistic dinner time, without forcing guests to queue around the block. Once known and loved as the city’s most ineffably debaucherous neighbourhood, Soho is now London’s rightful home of the ‘No-Reservations’ policy. ![]()
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